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Africa

A Taxi Ride in Dakar, Senegal

“Bonjour, ça va?” I ask as I open the creaking door to his black and yellow taxi.

“Ça va”

I sit down on the gray, once fluffy blanket that covers the seat; it is worn and melds into the seat cushion. His taxi is a little worse for wear; dents and black duct tape everywhere. A missing side view mirror here, a cracked windshield there, but it smells okay. An air freshener hangs from the rear view mirror. I recall a brief conversation the night before.

“Don’t worry about the condition of the taxi, it’s battered, but it will get you where you need to go”.

That statement echoed in my mind as I look around. As we enter the main road, I notice a sea of black and yellow taxis in the same battered condition. The ocean is directly ahead and there is a large mosque on the beach of the Atlantic.

We turn right and make our way on to the main road. Fifteen minutes later, we come to a roundabout. Cars, trucks, mopeds, taxis and buses bottleneck into the middle, horns blasting every other second. I look right, a horse-drawn cart is beside me, even it competes for space on the road and shows no fear. It is slow moving, but intense, as there is much traffic.

A woman dressed in bright coloured traditional clothes appears at my window on the right; she is selling bananas. A man puts a long, clear plastic rung of orange and black business sized cards to my window. I smile and shake my head “no”.  They remain. I shake my head again.

We exit the roundabout and continue our drive. Flashes of colour fly by my window. Beautifully
dressed women line the street, some carrying loads on their heads and children on their backs, others wait for a bus or shop the market stalls. I marvel at how the women dressed in white boubous stay so clean amidst the red earth, dust and garbage.

Vendors line the road selling watermelon. Fresh meat hangs in clear view at the butcher stands as flies buzz about. A mother and her young children sell clothes, produce and canned goods on the sidewalks.

Cows are being herded and goats roam the streets.

Children play soccer, dust, dirt and garbage among them.

Crumbling sidewalks, unfinished construction, vacant and neglected shops abound.

Packed blue and yellow buses with men hanging off the back.

White buses are loaded down with luggage and goats on top of the roof; the bus looks like it could topple over at any minute.

It’s unlike anything I have seen before, chaotic yet beautifully choreographed, as the movement fits together like a dance. A feeling of gratefulness washes over me. I smile and think to myself, I am in Africa.

Captured photos from the video I took on this drive to my Djembe lesson at a local community centre. 

Inside a Dakar Taxi
Inside a Dakar, Senegal taxi

 

Rummaging for Clothes in Dakar
Rummaging for clothes in Dakar

 

Lady selling bananas in traffic.
Lady selling bananas in traffic.

 

iPhone captured photos of Dakar, Senegal  Street Life

A Vendor in Dakar
One of the many vendors that work a roundabout in Dakar

 

Senegal Street Life
Senegal Street Life

 

Senegal Street Life
Senegal Street Life

 

 

 

 

I Dreamed of Africa

My stomach began to flutter as I walked to the jeep. The feeling grew as I climbed into the open game drive vehicle for the first time. I was both excited and nervous going for a 3-hour drive in the Greater Kruger National Park. The times in front of the TV watching Wild Kingdom with my dad and Gran and the hours spent leafing through National Geographic magazines as a child came to mind at that moment.

Was this real?

I wondered what animals we’d see on our drive. Though I would be happy to see any animal that was allowed to roam free, I secretly wished for a giraffe sighting. Suddenly we came upon a lone giraffe walking gracefully in front of us; I was ecstatic. It was too far away to get a decent photo, and we were moving slowly behind it.

It turned left and disappeared into the bush. We caught up to where it was, but the thick bush separated us. We watched for a moment and continued driving. Unexpectedly our jeep turned left; I smiled as I knew our guide would get us closer. The giraffe was eating off to the side of the dirt road, but the area had a lot of trees and thick bush. You’d be surprised at how quickly giraffes and even a herd of elephants can hide in it.

The giraffe moved, and the bush gave way a little, but still, I waited.

I soon noticed that the sun was beginning to set and the scene unfolding before me. The beauty of the sky and the road in front would add to the photo I thought. The light was disappearing, but I continued to wait. I enjoyed watching the slow manner in which it ate and moved, but I wondered if I would lose my chance.

Before I travelled to South Africa, I envisioned scenes I wanted to capture. This view was one of them. I wondered if the giraffe would ever come out of the bush so I could see it silhouetted against the sky, just as I had imagined. Someone asked why I wasn’t taking any photos, as she knew that I was a photographer.

“I’m waiting for the giraffe to walk out in front of us so I can take a photo of it against the sun and sky.”

“Spoken like a true photographer”.

Little did she know that I had been waiting my whole life for this, what was another minute or two? The giraffe stopped eating and moved away from the bush. It appeared in front of us.

I dreamed of Africa, and I dreamed of being able to capture this very scene… a giraffe photographed against a sunset sky. Dreams do come true.

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Cage Diving with Great White Sharks, check!

I came face to face with JAWS (cue the music) and lived to tell. Jaws (the movie) scared the bejeezus out of me, but for some reason, I have been fascinated with sharks for as long as I can remember, especially the Great White Shark.

Over the years, I’ve watched many episodes about them during Shark Week. I knew there were Great White Sharks in South Africa, but until recently I did not know you could get up close to them.

After much research, I chose to go with Great White Shark Tours (GWST) in Gansbaai, South Africa. It’s about a 2 hour drive from Cape Town and well worth it. The transfer company picked me up at the hostel I stayed at, The Backpack, and on the way, we stopped in Hermanus for some stretching. I saw a southern right whale and it’s calf from the shore.

My shark diving experience was a dream come true. I wish I could have gotten more underwater video with my Go Pro Hero 2. At the same time, I was happy to be present and be in the moment. Though you are in the same water as the sharks and only mere feet away, I felt very safe inside the cage.

It was absolutely incredible to be so close to these white sharks and it was actually calming. I compare it to watching a tank of fish swimming by. They didn’t even seem like they cared about us at all. If it weren’t for the chum and the workers on the boat trying to attract them, they probably wouldn’t have even approached us at all.

One of my favourite moments was when I was on the deck near the rail, and we were splashed by a Great White. Another favourite moment was when a shark was right beside the cage. The shark could not get any closer except to be inside the cage. It was so close that I moved back as far as I could as I thought it’s fin was going to touch me, but it missed me by inches.

Here are 2 photos I got with my iPhone from the boat.

Until next time,

Andrea… and my wandering iPhone

Great White Shark
Great White Shark off Dyer Island, South Africa

 

Great White Shark
Great White Shark off Dyer Island aka Shark Alley, South Africa

 

Socially Responsible in South Africa

I am grateful for the opportunity to go to South Africa and want to give back to the communities that I will be visiting. Short of volunteering trips which generally require several weeks to a year and can potentially be more about exploitation rather than helping (read here about the potential problems with some volunteering trips), how can people that want to help more directly, do so?

In my research, I came across three organizations. I learned about a program called Pack for a Purpose through The BackpackThe idea is to use space in your suitcase or your extra baggage allowance to pack much-needed items. To figure out what is needed, you look up a destination, choose lodging that participates and view the items that are needed. The information is regularly updated. What a great idea, right?!

For my trip to Africa (Senegal & South Africa), I am allowed two suitcases of up to 50 pounds each. I only need one small suitcase, so I have filled another one for donation. With the Pack for a Purpose organization, you bring the items to the lodging, and they will make sure it gets to the projects they support.

The hostel I’m staying at in Cape Town is The Backpack. I chose them because of their initiatives that support people and communities. They are more than a great hostel in an excellent location; their responsible tourism efforts are what drew me to them. It is important for me to support small businesses that affect people more directly, where I can. Check them out if you plan to visit Cape Town.

donations
donated items for Pack for a Purpose and Uthando South Africa

The other organization I learned of is Uthando South Africa. I couldn’t go to Cape Town and ignore the communities outside of the tourist areas. I’ve known about Apartheid over the years. Admittedly, I struggled with the idea of visiting a township as I didn’t want it to be voyeuristic or intrusive. I came across many tours, but they didn’t feel right to me. Uthando is different as you visit community projects that are making a difference to their communities. 

From the Uthando website: “Uthando offers tailor made, unique and authentic philanthropic cultural tours, visiting the projects that receive funding and other forms of assistance from Uthando and its benefactors. People attending on the field trip have an insight into the remarkable stories that make life in South Africa so interesting, dynamic and very importantly, inspiring. The tours are interactive, meeting the people at the projects, learning about their work and way of life, firsthand. By booking a tour with Uthando, clients are also automatically assisting the projects on a financial level.”

In addition to helping financially by going on a tour, I will also bring items that are needed in the donated suitcase. Finding a way to help not only locally, but globally is important to me, especially since having children.

I want to teach my boys about the world and the people of the world. I want to raise them to be socially responsible men. I want them to learn about giving and helping where they can, but not just by telling them, by showing them, and involving them. I strive to find ways to teach them about this in a meaningful way. Thanks to the Backpack, Pack for a Purpose and Uthando South Africa, I will be able to do so in a more tangible way.

Read More about Cape Town & South Africa :

Update February 2020:

Since this post almost 8 years ago, I’ve been to Cape Town 8 times and South Africa 10 times. My most recent trip was in October/November 2019. I still feel this way about these great organizations.